Coffee Terroir Commands Premium Prices

Terroir was originally a French term in wine used to denote the special characteristics that geography bestowed upon the grapes. It is a group of agricultural sites in same region which share the same soil, weather conditions and farming techniques, which each contribute to the unique qualities of the crop. It can be very loosely translated as “a sense of place” which is embodied in certain qualities, and the sum of the effects that the local environment has had on the manufacture of the product. Wikipedia

In certain regions of France terroir appelation is applied to patches of soil no bigger than the average suburban backyard. Needless to say wine produced from grapes in these ultra unique designated terroir commands a king’s ransom. Can the same fine distinction be applied to coffee beans?

Bon Appetit magazine thinks so. In a recent article the magazine touted the social value of paying $30 or more for a pound of coffee.

Want to wow your guests with a gift that’s as green as it is delicious? Show up at their weekend house with a bag of direct-trade coffee. That’s the term for coffee that’s even more socially conscious than fair-trade. The label “fair-trade” guarantees that the importer has a long-term sales relationship with the farmer and pays prices that add up to a living wage. And while fair-trade certification by TransFair USA “is still a valuable indicator of supply chain transparency,” according to Mark Overbay of Durham, North Carolina’s trend-setting Counter Culture, direct-trade coffee roasters work more directly with growers, in places such as Africa, Latin America, and Indonesia. Direct-trade coffee purveyors often have higher-than-market pay minimums, as well as quality that exceeds that of their fair-trade brethren.

It’s a scientific fact that wine made from grapes excites more taste sensors than any single substance, but is there any evidence that coffee can be similarly distinguished beyond regional distinctions?

You can listen to this radio show on WBUR (Boston) where guest speakers make the case for coffee terroir.